Isen varierer veldig fra år til år. Sånn var isen i 2005, sånn var den i 2006 og her er den i 2009. Og til slutt sånn i 2011 (fremtiden). Da blir det åpenbart at det er helt døll å bolte.
"Into The Wild" (not anymore)
Super Alpinists Robert Jasper have been to Gudvangen, first with Marcus Storfer, and later with Roger Schäli. Too bad he chose to bring bolts to these magic ice routes. Jasper even knew that one or two of the main ice falls already had been climbed. Jasper bolted the ice fall he gave the name “Fosslimonster”. This line has been waited for by climbers to form completely, but Jasper did not wait, he just bolted instead. They also put in a unknown number of bolt on the left most line on Kjerrskredkvelven. This line is a variation of the line climbed in 2006 by me and Olsen. This year also the lower intro ice fall had frozen, meaning Jasper and Strofer could climb ice for more than 1000 meters. They gave the route the ironic name Into The Wild. These ice falls can be climbed and rappelled without any bolts. If you think it's unsafe, please bail. Half way up “the longest ice route in the world” you even can find a forest full of trees (and a few sheep) to rappel off. I have rappelled from the very top once and from the right ice line once. Both times we didn’t need to leave anything but a few slings. I also know that I.Pappert and H.Berger bailed from the middle line, and also a unknown team did the lower fall years ago. None of these needed any bolts to get down this straight forward descent. It is not common to bring bolts when you go ice climbing in Norway.
Please check these links illustrating how ice conditions change from year to year in Norway:
- Gudvangen ice lines in 2005. Photo by Will Gadd.
- Here it is the year after. Photo by Marius Olsen.
- And here it is in 2009 when Strofer and Jasper bolted it. Photo by Robert Jasper.
- Gudvangen Ice 2011 (in the future)
Not so good Mr. Jasper. And why do you need bolts? I know you are such a strong climber anyway. Probably the strongest dude who ever climbed in Gudvangen and also the only one finding it neccessary to bolt.
Andreas Klarströms view on Hiltistyle
BMC News About the climbs
Planet Mountain News about the climbs
Offisiel uttalelse fra Norsk Tindeklubb